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Gomantong Caves in the Kinabatangan is a spectacular system of caverns
and tunnels that bring you deeper and deeper into the heart of a
tradition that has spanned more three centuries. Here is where the
bravest of men would attempt to climb bamboo and rattan ladders
strung up from the ground to the roof of the caves where the precious
commodity – birds’ nests – is harvested. This activity is best left
to the experts but there are other things to see and do at Gomantong.
There are two caves here, Simud Hitam and Simud Putih. Simud Hitam
has a huge grotto-like opening with a circular boardwalk to keep
you off the guano-covered ground crawling with bugs and cockroaches.
The ecosystem in this cave is untouched. Nothing is removed, other
than the birds’ nests, and all living things here play a significant
role in maintaining a perfect balance of the cave’s lifecycle.
Climb up the limestone cliff above Simud Hitam and you will witness
a truly amazing sight. Here is Simud Putih where the more valuable
white birds’ nest is harvested. During harvesting time, the cave
is filled with people living in this dark, dank environment. The
area is very dimly lit but you can see, and feel, the tension in
the air as groups of men call out to each other to make sure that
the ladders are secure and the nests that are dropped to the ground
are collected by its rightful owner.
Walk off from the center of this activity and you’ll be plunged
into almost complete darkness as you make your way through a labyrinth
of tunnels to get to the cave opening at the very top of Simud Putih.
Wait here in the evening and you will witness a spectacular aerial
show as millions of bats pour out of this opening for their nightly
forage. At the same time, the swiftlets will be returning to roost
in the darkness of the cave. This soup of “meals in flight” is the
perfect opportunity for predator birds such as serpent eagles and
kites to drop by for dinner.
Most caves are limestone caves which dot the wetland landscape on
the east coast of Sabah. Because of the flat terrain, hills have
been used in the past as a refuge from floods. One such hill is
Batu Tulug, a limestone hill that have been used for centuries,
as a burial site of the orang sungai in the district. Hundreds of
intricately carved wooden coffins have been discovered here and
is now part of a museum display to highlight the ceremonial burial
custom of the orang sungai in the past.
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